When I mentioned the
route I’d be riding on das motorrad
and that it would include Peñasco, Sallie said, “Sugar Nymphs, if you haven’t
been there, you must stop for lunch!”
And I wondered, “Sugar
Nymphs what?... In Peñasco?... in my book, sweets have to be exceptional or not
at all…”
A body in motion tends
to stay in motion, and when I’m in, or on, a vehicle I fall into this tendency,
or trap. Especially when I’m on the bike, the journey is about the riding. To a
fault, I get my teeth on the bit and just ride, ride, ride, the cost often being
I blast right on by little places well worth exploring.
Coming into Peñasco from
Vadito, there it is, Sugar Nymphs Bistro, right next to the old theatre. The
place looks cheery and there are cars in the parking lot - always a good sign.
It’s lunchtime and I slow and peer at the place, survey the scene, and almost,
almost, pull in. But the momentum beast had me in its grips. I keep rolling. And
I think, “Gordon! For Pete’s sakes, turn around and go in!” Whenever Sallie
recommends a place to eat or a book to read, it’s always spot on. So I grapple
with the beast, triumph over it and turn around.
Sugar Nymphs Bistro is a
gem, it is a rare gem. From the murals painted on the outside walls to the
atmosphere of the cozy dining room, it’s clear this little eatery is an
expression of what co-owners Kai Harper and Ki Holste love to do. And they back
it up with sophisticated talents developed over years cheffing and restaurateuring
in the Bay Area.
Being Sunday, the menu
is for brunch. I already had eggs for breakfast so I read my way down the sheet
past egg and pancake offerings, to find a grilled pork loin sandwich. This, with
a salad instead of fries will fit the bill. I also order coffee. The waitress
is prompt and courteous and friendly.
When the coffee arrives
so does a scone. Hmm… I didn’t order one, but I’m not going to argue. Turns out
the scone is complimentary at brunch. It’s homemade and so is the mixed berry
compote in the accompanying little cup. Like the scone, the compote is warm.
Not hot, but warm, just right to bring out the bouquet of the fruit. The scone
is flaky and rich and with a dab of the compote and a sip of coffee, I am in
heaven. At least I think I am, until my sandwich arrives. Then I know it.
The bun, naturally, is homemade.
The crust is resplendent under a light egg glaze, and makes itself known
without me feeling the need to see a Periodontist; the fine textured bread
within has just enough substance to stand up to the fillings. And the slices of
pork loin, which actually taste like pork and not some ubiquitous other white
meat, melt in my mouth. How do they do this? This is in league with a perfectly
grilled filet mignon. Earthy and mouthwatering. The sandwich features a swipe
of spiced mayonnaise, a few baby greens and slices of tomato. Oh, the tomato.
I’m talking just picked from your garden, tomato. Its sweet tang sings a
beautiful harmony with the pork. The small mixed greens salad on the side provides
my palate with a resting place from the sandwich.
When walking in, I made
note of the carrot cake hovering on one end of the lunch counter. Beautifully
done. The waitress sees I’ve finished the sandwich and asks if I’d like
dessert. Well, I do love carrot cake but I am… just right. Not one thin wafer…
and I decline.
Thank goodness for the
times and places like Sugar Nymphs Bistro, where inspiration prevails. For
these few moments dining, I have been elevated into a world of care and effort
and love and fineness. Do I have to get on the motorcycle and go away? Might
they adopt me? And feed me? Forever?
Go to Peñasco; it is not
out of the way. The High Road to Taos winds into the foothills of the Sangre de
Cristo Mountains, through little Northern New Mexico towns and beautiful
landscape. It’s one of the great drives, or rides, in the country, and it
happens to be the way to Sugar Nymphs Bistro.
Gordon Bunker
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