The sun stares relentlessly
through a shocking, high-desert blue sky, it’s turning into a hot afternoon. Anticipating
it will be cooler in the mountains I decide to open the car windows and forgo
the AC. The thermometer in the car reads 86º F., and making my way along Hyde
Park Road to the Santa Fe Ski Basin, it’s not dropping fast enough, the interior
of the car is roasting. With the heat, and every bump and curve in the road, my
cupcake anxiety ratchets up a notch.
I’m bringing cupcakes
and wine. Really, for any occasion, could there be a better combination? By the
time I get to Black Canyon I can’t stand it any longer so pull over to check on
my little carrot cake creations. With images in mind of melted frosting and
cupcakes strewn in all directions, I pop the rear hatch, brace myself, and take
a look. The dozen cakes stare up at me from the foil-lined box, sitting just as
I had placed them. What a relief! Worries cast aside I continue, at a very
relaxed pace which makes for an unusually mellow, smell-the-roses, drive.
I’ve been known to take
this twisting hill climb with right foot mashed on the gas pedal and hands full
of steering wheel and gear shift, as close to the limit of the tire’s adhesion
as I’m willing to take it, and loving every minute. The saying, “It’s better to
drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow,” is true. Given my propensity for
speed, it comes as complete, sweet, poetic justice that a motorhome should
storm up behind me, filling my rearview mirror. Pushy, pushy. The poor
motorhome pilot’s speedy forward progress is impeded by the slow-going vehicle
firmly planted before him. Tisk, tisk. With the tables so turned, I grin and
take my time.
The altitude at the
lower Ski Basin parking lot is over 10,000 feet, and the temperature is a
refreshing 74º. Daria’s car is parked at the perimeter, and tents and camping
accouterments are set up at a site right next to it, but no one is around. This
is all fine and well - Daria told me she and fellow partiers would probably be
out for a hike. Walking into the campsite with box of cupcakes in hand, I
realize there’s nothing about the setup clearly identifying it as Daria’s.
There’s a good chance I’m wandering into the unoccupied territory of some other
party, which could become awkward. Boxes of artist’s brushes and paints however,
are mixed in with the bottles of water, camp stove, cooking pots and paper
towels on the picnic table, so figuring it’s a safe bet, I set the cupcakes on
the tabletop. If it proves otherwise, I’ll give the barged-in-upon strangers a
cake or three in parting. That should smooth any ruffled feathers. A small camp
chair sits by the stream, so I go back to the car, get my book and set myself
comfortably to reading.
Mountain air, a babbling
brook, relaxation, and I didn’t sleep well last night, so nodding off is a real
possibility. In fifteen or so minutes, to my relief, Daria, her dog Spike, and
her friend Lisa come walking up. There are happy birthday wishes and hugs, and
as they’ve just hiked Deception Peak without any lunch they are famished. Lisa
carves up a watermelon, cold from sitting in the stream. We munch the sweet and
juicy chunks while Daria cracks open an ice-cold Heineken tall-boy which we
share, and sets to heating homemade rice pilaf on the stove. She asks me if I’d
like some, and given she’s a great cook and I am a bit peckish I’m all for it.
Tall spruce trees shade
the site, we sip the beer, catch up on what’s been going on, the rice pilaf
steams in the pan, and so a great summer time begins. I open the wine, a Petit
Sirah, and pour it around, the color a luscious and deep blueberry-red. The
grapes on the vine must be beautiful. Daria serves the pilaf. She ladles some
on my plate, I indicate this is enough and she adds another spoonful. Daria
always does this, it’s very sweet. She could be trying to fatten me up… and she
could be succeeding. Somehow I always manage to clean my plate without any
trouble.
There are also the
makings for shish kebab, but we have no skewers or firewood. Daria and Lisa are
still hungry so Daria improvises, sautéing some of the marinated pork and
slices of zucchini squash. We continue to nosh, polish off the wine and move on
to the cupcakes which are met with favorable reviews. Reinforcements arrive in
the nick of time, it’s Daria’s son Dave and his buddy Tom, and they, being
young men are happy to crash around the forest and gather firewood. Lucy shows
up with a kale salad, Dave and Tom get a fire going and we are in business.
Afternoon fades into
evening as we hang out and feast. The pork cooked over the open fire, succulent
and sizzling, is delicious. Daria makes use of the aluminum foil from the
cupcake box (the cakes are nearly gone) to wrap potatoes for roasting in the
fire. Once wrapped she places them in the coals, and after a while, with sticks
and quick jabs of the fingers, Dave and Tom turn them.
With darkness the
temperature plummets and we sit close to the fire. Looking up through the
canopy of trees, the dark sky is a blaze of stars. The potatoes are done, Daria
hands one to each of us. I unwrap mine and munch on it, steaming, the flavor is
earthy, this ancient food staple is so simple and satisfying. The French call a
potato, pomme de terre or “apple of
the earth.” Indeed.
Daria gets her guitar and
starts to play. She sings a series of Russian folk songs, in Russian, her
native tongue. One song builds to a crescendo, then she slaps the body of the
guitar and stops, I think this is the end, but no, in a few seconds she starts
and again, quietly, slowly, the song builds. It goes through this cycle a few
times, when it ends with a flourish, she identifies it as a, “Gypsy song.” The
songs have been beautiful to listen to, haunting, each a connection to a place
and culture largely unknown to me. Daria then becomes quiet. I look at her, she
is gazing into the fire, a long distant gaze perhaps thousands of miles to
home. No doubt some part of her heart still belongs to Russia.
The hour is late, I give
my thanks and head for home. Here and there deer browse green thickets by the
road. They are content to eat and I am content to pass slowly and without
incident. Driving the twists and turns in the flood of high beam light is
dynamic and engaging. Even without cupcakes or motorhomes, there are the deer,
so I enjoy the drive in a slo-mo rally way.
My first glimpse of city
lights through the trees I mistake for being fire. For an instant, a powerful
alarm rises from deep within. Now, driving through downtown Santa Fe, the place
is alive with people on the streets, it’s nice to see them out enjoying this
summer night. Yet, after sharing a fire in the woods with friends, feeling if
only briefly a bit of the Gypsy life, this built environment seems oddly remote
from what matters. It’s warmer here, I open the car windows, air floods in,
laden with a pungent mix of city smells. When I get to my place I look up to
the sky. Only the brightest stars show.
Nice to read of your gypsy land visit. We went Sunday and I had a nice nap in the tent by the river.
ReplyDeleteHi Paul, Glad you enjoyed. And a Sunday nap by the river... it doesn't get better than that! Best wishes, GB
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